Wednesday, August 13, 2008

BBQ CHICKEN 101

Yeah, I know, barbeque chicken...BIG DEAL! And you're right, it isn't a big deal. In fact, I seldom make barbecue chicken; I prefer other ways to finish chicken off on the grill other than with BBQ sauce. BUT...good barbecue isn't that simple and I've written about that here before on Livingston Cooks. I wanted to go through the process again here with the simplest and most recognizable of grilled foods: BBQ'd Chicken.

As you will remember, I now prefer charcoal to gas. I have a killer gas barbecue that I never use. It has to be re-jetted, but that's beside the point; the food cooked over coals tastes about 100 times better than over a gas flame. And as you may recall, I have a small coal barbecue that I use that cost about 100 times less than the mammoth stainless steel one that sits idle. If I had it to do all over again, I would get a really good coal barbecue, but my plan is to rejet the gas barbecue and use it for spit cooking and roasting larger cuts of meat and continue to use my little one for the smaller ones.

Well...enough blathering about that for now.

When grilling over coals, the first thing you must do is stack the coals in a mound. This helps them to stay all snuggly and warm together until they have officially lit. That is, they need to be piled together to contain heat until they are burning hot enough to cook over. To start the coals, douse with igniting fuel and light. POOF...you have just lit your hair on fire!

Here the coals have been stacked and ignited. The edges are white and you can see a nice glow in the center of the pile of coals. At this point the heat above the coals is warm enough to warm your hands over, but useless to cook over. If you stuck your finger into the coals, however, your eyes would definitely water! So, uhh...don't be doing that!!


Here you get a closer look at the hot center of the coals. This is where the work is being done in getting the temperature up for cooking. The fire spreads to all of the other coals and when they are white, they are ready to cook over.

The coals are pretty hot at this point and if you were to hold your hand over them for more than 30 seconds, you would have yourself a pretty crispy stump left in its place. These coals are ready to be spread out into a bed for cooking.

The coals are spread out evenly and the grill is placed over them to warm up. Now we're ready to cook the chicken.

Chicken thighs - bone in and skin on - are my choice for the night. I like dark meat and I think the thigh is the juiciest part of the chicken. The important thing to remember when grilling chicken is to COOK IT OVER A LOW HEAT. This is because chicken has to be well done and it is prone to flair ups which will burn the outside to a crisp while leaving the inside raw. I'll get to that in more detail in a moment, but here is a guideline for grilling meats:
  • Steaks and chops - cook over the hottest flame possible. This includes beef, lamb and pork. A hot flame will enable you to serve a rare steak that is sizzling and browned on the exterior.
  • Fish - medium to very high flame. Fish is delicate so it's important to oil it up before it hits the grill, but depending how delicate the fish is, you should try to move it as little as possible.
  • Chicken and fowl - small cuts like thighs, legs and breasts are best cooked over a low flame. Whole birds are cooked over a medium to low flame also. A rotisserie is needed for roasting whole birds unless you roast it on the cold side of a larger barbecue.

I season the chicken with a little olive oil, sea salt, crushed dried chipotle chile and paprika. Now the chicken is ready for the grill!!

PSSSSSS!!! That's the sound a hot grill should make when meat is placed on top of it. A hot grill will not allow meat to stick to it. If there is one thing you ever learn about cooking meat on a grill is should be to get it hot enough prior to putting meat on it.


After the chicken hits the grill, I close the lid as well as the bottom vent. This will cool the fire off so I can cook the chicken without setting it aflame. When I put my chicken on the hot grill, it immediately began to flame up. The fire was too hot. But I wanted to brown the chicken quickly and reduce the heat for a slow cook so I had to put the brakes on the heat. This is easier to do with gas by just turning a knob, but by reducing airflow feeding the coals, you can manipulate the flame as easily.

The other advantage to closing the lid - and really the most import and reason - is to trap in all of the smoke so the smoky flavor is imparted to the meat. That's the real reason why coals are superior to gas. It's the smoke that makes the difference!!!!

As you can see, the smoke is just blasting out of the top vent. This is because the flame is still quite hot.

I close the top vent which also cools the flame further. It also traps in more smoke. Think of this little barbecue as a smoker as well as a grill. I can't stress enough the difference in flavor smoke makes (and perhaps I'm beating it to death) but airflow = smoke control which = flavor.

You can see that the flame is much cooler now as I have opened the top vent and only a small amount of smoke is blowing out of the top. This is a nice slow fire for slow cooking chicken and it provides enough smoke as well.

The chicken is about half done here and you can see it is golden brown. I continue to cook it out until it is about 3/4 done before applying BBQ sauce. Adding BBQ sauce too early will make the sauce burn. This is because BBQ sauce is sugar based and the sugars will caramelize and burn is added too early.

A liberal amount of sauce is added. The lid is closed and the sauce is allowed to "set up" or become sticky. Whay we want to do is dry out the sauce a bit and help it stick to the chicken.


The sauce is becoming sticky and I can now flip it over, brush with sauce and repeat the process.

The chicken is done. The sauce is sticky and sweet.

Lola made a beautiful salad of mixed baby greens tossed lightly with hazelnut oil, toasted hazelnuts, dried cranberries, Irish blue cheese, sea salt and a sprinkle of love. It was a nice light salad and I loved the oil!

She steamed off some corn and made a compound butter with lime juice, lime zest, cilantro, minced garlic and a bit of habanero pepper flakes. The butter was mixed with the other ingredients and allowed to chill before being spread over the hot corn. Very nice indeed!


There you have it, barbecued chicken. A I said before, it is easy...but but there are varying degrees of skill on the barbecue and it takes a little work to master cooking and smoking over an open flame. I am still learning myself and I am totally stoked on grilling, so take heart and get excited!!

Friday, August 8, 2008

I HAVE MOVED ON


I thought it may be a good idea to announce that I have resigned my position as Executive Chef of Eaton Hall. I left about 6 weeks ago but didn't think it worth the time to post an entry about it here on Livingston Cooks. But today I realized that there are still some brides and grooms who look in on Livingston Cooks who have weddings coming up at Eaton Hall and I don't want them to continue to think that I am still in charge of the kitchen. That wouldn't be fair to anyone.

While I was at Eaton Hall, I met some good people...


...had a few laughs...


...and cooked some great food. The rest will remain a mystery.

I am returning to Eaton Hall to put out one final wedding banquet at the end of this month. I wrote a custom menu for one couple that I feel I must return to execute. I don't want to leave this couple high and dry on their wedding day. I'll be sure to take pictures and post them here on Livingston Cooks. I'm doing an Island theme.

Adios Amigos!

Wednesday, July 30, 2008

MEAT SAUCE MY WAY

My children are...well...I love them to death, and when they ask me to make them something that they love, I try to oblige. As with most children, spaghetti with meat sauce is high on the favorite list and my kids asked me to make it for them recently.

I know, I know...it isn't exactly the most interesting meal in the world, but I honestly believe it is one of the most comforting meals we can eat. I guess it appeals to our memories of childhood, I don't know. Anyway, I was asked the other day what meal I would ask for if it was to be my last. I think this would be it. But then a pig out on wine and cheese followed by a butt load of chocolate just might be it too. Hopefully I'll never have to choose.

One thing I know about meat sauce is that everyone has their own way of making it and they generally like it the way they make it. So, with that in mind, I won't go on about how good my sauce is. I like mine the way I make it and that's all that matters to me. I'll just share it here for those of you who may like to have a go at it.

This is not a traditional Bolognese sauce. Traditionally, Bolognese is a ragout which is a sauce of beef, pancetta, onions, garlic, tomato, broth, wine and herbs. But the recipe is somewhat like Borscht - everyone has their own version. What this is is a meat sauce which is bulked up with sausage. The ingredients are ground pork, sweet Italian sausage, red wine, balsamic vinegar, crushed tomatoes, tomato paste, carrot, zucchini, oregano, anise, salt and sugar.


This is the Italian sausage. I like a sweet sausage for the kids, but personally...I prefer a hot sausage for myself.

A Pelee Island Merlot is the wine I chose for the sauce.


The sausage is cut into 1 inch lengths.


A heavy bottomed pot is ideal for slow cooking a tomato based sauce.


Brown the sausage....


...add the ground pork...


...when the sausage and pork are browned...


...splash in some wine. Simmer this out for a few moments while you enjoy a few sips of some wine.

Add in some grated carrot and zucchini...


...and some minced onion and garlic.


Cook all these ingredients out for about 20 minutes over a high heat.


Add crushed tomatoes...


...and give everything a stir. Reduce the heat to medium.


Add sugar, salt, anise and oregano.


Add balsamic vinegar and stir everything together.


Reduce heat to low and cook out for about one hour.


Add tomato paste.


Cook the sauce for another 20 minutes to 30 minutes and it's done. Serve with linguine, garlic bread and Caesar salad.

TORONTO JAZZ FESTIVAL 2008


We went to the Toronto Jazz Festival in the Beaches the other day. I don't have a lot to say about it other than that the music was great and that it was fun. Next year I'll definitely return and spend more time there than I had this year.

Kaitlin and Garret (my kids) joined us there and Garret got bored of the music pretty quickly. I don't think it's a venue for children, unless they are fans of live music. But Kaitlin liked the music because she is musical herself. She sings and had spent the last few years in her school jazz band learning the saxaphone and the flute.

There were several bands playing - about 20 - and they were all awesome. The Latin bands were my favorite, but that's because I love Latin music. I will say though that I watched a lot of passers by start dancing when they were in the Latin section. It's infectious!!

Here are a few pictures, although they aren't the greatest. I wanted to get more shots of the "street food" but I was pressed for time. Maybe next year.

Tuesday, July 29, 2008

ANTIPASTO

It doesn't take much to throw together a quick antipasto, and there's nothing better with a little wine and some good company. Antipasto can be as informal as you want it to be and keeping it simple best.


A few assorted olives...


...a bit of cheese...


...a little roasted garlic...


...some marinated mushrooms...


...some more fromage...


...a little sausage and a little fresh crusty bread and you're happening!

Saturday, July 19, 2008

CAFE TASTE - A GREAT OASIS FOR WINE AND CHEESE



Lola and I tried to go out for a nice dinner the other night and it seemed like it just wasn't meant to be. We wanted to go to one restaurant in particular but found that it was closed for a private party when we arrived.

We walked up and down Queen Street looking for something nice, but didn't happen upon anything that sparked our interest. When we did find one that looked interesting (we'll try it soon) we found they didn't take Interac. We looked up and down that area of Queen and couldn't find an Interac machine that worked! Grrrrrrr!

All of this walking around wasted about an hour or so and as we passed the original restaurant we wanted to go to, we found it had opened up to the public again so we decided to go there for dinner.


As we were walking home along Queen Street, we were passing other restaurants looking in at the staff as most of them were closing up and reading menus posted on windows. We were passing one place - Cafe Taste - and a waiter standing in the door asked us to come in to see the patio in the back. We went in and decided to have a look.

Cafe Taste is a wine and cheese bar that offers over 30 wines by the glass and up to 30 cheeses. We came in at the close of the night after there had been a wine event, but there were still a few people lingering on the patio sipping wine over quiet conversation by candle light. Lola and I ordered a glass of ice wine each and had a sampling of two cheeses. It was a nice way to end a what started out as a not so perfect evening.

The best thing about the night was that we discovered Cafe Taste; we want to go back soon for a night of wine and cheese. Cafe Taste not only offers a vast array of wine and cheese for sampling, but they are proud of the fact that they search for local products to offer their guests.

While we were enjoying our ice wine, we were brought a really nice blue cheese that paired well with it. I also wanted some goats cheese which was supplied without a problem.

As a wine and cheese lover, I want to go back to Cafe Taste to bust a gut one night. I think it will be a a night of sensual pleasure and fun!! And if you're a wine and cheese lover...you should check it out too. You may find a new favorite.

Here's a link to the Cafe Taste web page: http://www.cafetaste.ca/



Cafe Taste 1330 Queen St West (@ Brock St.) 416.536.7748 cafetaste@rogers.com